To remove redeye from a picture:
Right click the image for the image menu, then select Color/Remove Redeye
Move the mouse to one corner of the affected area, press and hold the left mouse button, drag an ellipse roughly over the area, and release the mouse button.
Use the magnified view that pops up when you release the mouse to refine the designated area. To resize the ellipse, position the mouse over any edge, then hold the left button while dragging it. To reposition the ellipse, hold down the Ctrl key and position the mouse on the ellipse, then hold the left button while dragging it.
Click OK.
Note 1: While the redeye processing window has many settings, basic redeye removal is best accomplished with the default settings: Correction Method set to Reduce Red and Reduction Method set to Minimize.
Note 2: If an image has redeye removal processing, the Remove Redeye selection on the color menu will be checked. When the mouse passes over an area designated for redeye processing, Easel outlines it. Right click on the outlined area for a popup menu with choices to remove or modify the processing.
Every photographer is familiar with redeye, the ghoulish distortion caused by light from the flash reflecting off blood in the eyes. Just about every camera has some sort of red eye reduction feature these days, but it still happens, and so just about every digital image editor has tools to fix it. Easel is no exception, and there's a lot of thought and experimentation behind its redeye removal capabilities. There's also capability for dealing with other sorts of reflective distortion, hence "redeye+." Some of this is overkill, but the basic method for removing redeye is effective, easy to use, and very precise.
Removing redeye is straightforward, technically speaking, but the problem with most editors is that it can be hard to designate exactly the area in which to do so, and imprecision introduces new distortion. Hence redeye reduction in Easel works in two steps: first, you drag an ellipse roughly over the area to be processed; then a magnified version of the area pops up in which you can fine tune and preview the area.
While working on redeye processing, it occurred to me that redeye was only the most common type of distortion caused by reflection and that, since I was adding the capability to designate parts of an image and process them independently, perhaps I could give Easel the ability to deal with other types of "reflective distortions" as well. I can't say that any of what I came up with is breathtaking, but there may be circumstances in which you find some of it useful. For what it's worth, you won't find it in other image editors.
Because of the RGB color model, it is very easy to reduce or remove only the red from part of an image; all you do is adjust the number representing red in each pixel in the designated area. It's equally easy to do the same for green and blue; are there any instances where this might be handy? While working on redeye, I solicted examples from friends, and received cases of both greeneye (in cats) and blueeye (in dogs). The green wasn't pure enough for removing green to do much, but removing the blue worked pretty well.
Easel can also reduce a user-specified range of colors, useful when the distortion is not a pure color (which is most often the case). When this method is selected, you need to perform the additional step of designating the color range. After clicking OK to close the window, you will be prompted to drag an ellipse over the area containing the color range: most often, you will want to select the distorted area. To change the range, right click the processing area, select edit, click OK, and drag it again.
Note: Preview is not available with this setting.
Whenever you chose one of the above Reduce... methods, you will also have a choice for Reduction Method, the technique used to modify the color values. With red, green or blue, Minimize sets the selected color to equal the lowest of the three values, while with a color range, Minimize reduces all colors in proportion to their prevalence in the range. WIth Darken, the selected color or colors in the range are reduced by the percentage set in the Darken By (%) control. Minimize generally works better, but if you are not getting satisfactory results, click Darken and see what it looks like.
Glare, when the flash reflects off of a shiny surface,
is probably the next most common reflection problem after redeye. It's
just about impossible to fix because there's nothing left to recover --
the pixels are pretty much white. I made a stab at it that can help a
little bit when the area is small, as with eyeglasses. To use it, you
need to designate the processing area so that it starts on the left and
ends on the right OUTSIDE of the glare, because it works by scanning horizontally
to detect where the glare begins and ends, and shades the glare with colors
sampled from the unaffected area. It works in conjunction with the Darken By (%) setting, and tends not to do much
until this approaches 100%. It's not great, but it can reduce the visual
distraction caused by small areas of glare.
The intensity of all color values in the designated area are reduced by the Darken By (%) setting.
All color values in the designated area are replaced with the color you select by clicking the Pick Color button. Not a subtle effect.
All color values in the designated area are replaced with colors selected randomly from within another part of the image. When this method is selected, you need to perform the additional step of designating the area from which to pick colors. After clicking OK to close the window, you will be prompted to drag an ellipse over the area.
The processing area will be filled in with a copy of another portion of the image. When this method is selected, you need to perform the additional step of designating the area from which to copy. After clicking OK to close the window, you will be prompted to click in the center of the area to copy.
Although strange, this can be a surprisingly effective
way to deal with one bad eye when you've still got a good one (an eye
for an eye?). In the example, the subject's right eye was completely glared
out by the flash, in a way that none of the above techniques did much
good. However, there was a perfectly good left eye inches away. When I
selected this setting and clicked in the middle of the good eye, the fix
was nearly perfect (it still looks good blown up to a much larger size
than shown).
You can also use this method for a variety of special effects having nothing to do with reflective distortions: creating insets, giving someone a third eye in the middle of their forehead, etc. Go wild.